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Old 05-05-2008, 10:58 AM
oklahomabowhunter oklahomabowhunter is offline
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Default 2" Vanes

i see alot of peeps on the huntin' shows shootin' the 2" vanes. i thought i might give them a try and was wantin' some imput from the great peeps in fourm land. NAP has the new 2" twisters, also the 2" quik spin, then theres the blazers. if i chose to use any of these do you fletch them like normal or do they need to be farther away from the nock. i have a arizona easy fletcher. also should they be fletched straight or with a slight offset. i shoot a drop away rest but was thinkin' of gettin a WB rest for ease of use. i have heard that this rest is hard on fletchings especially quik spins because they are stiffer than other vanes. i shoot alot, so i don't want to be reflectchin' alot.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:27 PM
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Colorado Rick Colorado Rick is offline
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COOOOL!! A Thread I can actually speak with experience on!!


OK... So we, (wife & myself) shoot WB, however - the son's bow has an arrest type rest... (Say that 5x fast). It makes contact at 3 pointson the shaft only. It's pretty cool. I think an "arrest type" rest like my sons may work better with quick-spins than the WB does.

The problem in addition to the stiffness of the "whiskers" in regards to quick spins is that the vanes usually turn so fast you lose KE. I saw the math on another site that escapes me now, but it's out there.

Now... against advice... I shot 4" vanes through my WB. What I started to see was that the vanes were ruffeling. Sorta like what you see when you look at a Ruffels potato chip. Also... my biscuit now has whiskers going every which way. Obvuisly the 4" vane is out, and I have switched back to the reccommended 2" blazer. Before I got new shafts, I really didn't have any vane issues crop up, other than shooting a broadhead right over the top of another shaft. Then I sliced the thing right off.

There should be a triangle formed at the bottom of the biscuit disc in black whiskers that is harder that the brown ones. That is so the shaft has a place to rest on something stiffer that surrounding hairs. That black area is what destroys the vanes more than anything else, and I put this forth as well, I think the shafts that do see problems are old and possibly not well-kept anyway.

In short... after God knows how many shots, I've not lost a vane yet to the whisker bisuit when I use the proper arrow in the first place.

Hope that helps!
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:39 PM
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Colorado Rick Colorado Rick is offline
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This is the rest my son has, and I guess they call it a "capture rest"... though I think Diamond calls it something else...

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...4000_400-14-13
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Old 05-05-2008, 02:20 PM
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2" blazers work well for me with my WB. Straight vanes work best for me. Don't worry about "2 degrees right helical" setups, etc. Perhaps that's better suited for tournament target shoots.

The WB will wear on your vanes some, that's inevitable. If you don't want to ever entertain the 2.50 per arrow it costs to refletch them you can do them yourself or perhaps get a different rest. The QAD 360 That Rick mentioned is good. There are also good arrow-arresting drop-away rests such as the Ripcord rest or Vital Bow Gear has a great one too (probably my next rest). You can also pay 5 bucks for a crimp to put on your bow. It hold your arrow in place until you begin your draw. It is meant as an arrow-arrestor for regular drop away rests. Keep in mind the crimper only works to hold your arrow while your bow is at its regular resting position. Once you start to draw your on your own with a regular drop-away. Good luck and happy hunting.
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Old 05-11-2008, 12:15 PM
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If you want a rest that holds the arrow on like a biscuit but the benifits of a drop-away. Checkout the NAP Scizzorsrest. I think you would like it. As for fletchings I like the NAP Quickspins Speedhunters. They really fly great!
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:24 AM
oklahomabowhunter oklahomabowhunter is offline
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thxs ya'll for your input. i would still like to know if i put the bottom of the vane close to the nock like you normally do or move them up the shaft alittle?
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:25 AM
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Default 2" Vanes

I've been using the 2" Blazer's, and haven't had any problems. I glue them close to the nock, and straight (no right twist), the same as a 4" vane, and haven't found a need to try to move them down the shaft. Now I do use a drop-away rest, and I also use white reflective arrow wraps, which I cut in half before applying, and this leaves about of inch above and below the vane. The reflective arrow wraps work great for filming and for night recovery, but as far as the 2" vanes, they work great for me. I did meet someone with the same white on white set-up, and he stagered one vane 1/2" lower to make it easy to find his "cock" vane, and shot very well with them. I prefer to just put a small "x" on my "down" vane with a marker. Good Luck and God Bless
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oklahomabowhunter View Post
thxs ya'll for your input. i would still like to know if i put the bottom of the vane close to the nock like you normally do or move them up the shaft alittle?
Put then the same distance from the nock that you would normally do. Dont slide them toward the tip.
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Old 05-13-2008, 12:00 AM
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Cant go wrong with the 2'' Blazers , I use the Arizona EZ Fletch straight with 1 degree , they steer a Broadhead great especially a 2 blade Rage Mechanical , them heads tear thing up let me tell ya , I use a NAP Quick Tune Rest with the Cock Vane down and it passes threw perfectly , they fly perfectly out past 50 yards , not saying you want to take a shot there but if all circumstances are perfect i wouldnt doubt them at all .......I Did.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:29 AM
oklahomabowhunter oklahomabowhunter is offline
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thxs ya'll just what i needed to hear. guess i'll give them a try. they're a lot cheaper then quik spins anyway. i'm still new to the carbon arrow scene, only second year with carbon. it was hard for me to switch, but i was glad i did for the increase in speed and if they ain't broke there straight. i'm still old school in the refletch department. i use a sharp blade to remove my old flectchings, then use hot water and comet to remove the glue residue off the shaft. i haven't noticed any carbon fibers coming off the shaft so i assume i'm doing this correctly. any tips on refletching would also be useful.
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