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Old 04-25-2008, 11:05 PM
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Colorado Rick Colorado Rick is offline
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Default Tail-Right Tearing

OK... Now I'm bothered. Never a good thing.

I spent most of the morning today replacing my shafts. All but 2 have been destroyed... let's not go into how... let's just say that I've been learning a lot. k? k.

Anyway. I got a box of Easton Epic Slim Tech 400's because the Redheads I have been shooting are not available for a while. Bummer. I had them cut to 29" which is just right for my draw. Got them home and glued in the inserts, then went to dinner and paper tested Cale's bow and Cheri's bow. Tey tested fine and I was ready to see how these flew.

I numbered all 12 and put on 125 grain field points. 1-6 tore tail-right. I stopped at 6 and changed the 125 to 100 grain. Same thing. I stopped.

I looked up tail-right tearing and found the following:

"A tail-right tear is usually indicative of an overspined arrow, too much tension on your cushion plunger, or a bow that is too light for the current arrows. You can increase bow weight, use weaker spined, or longer arrows, or try moving your rest horizontally."

A) What the heck is a cushion plunger??

B) I can't increase the bow weight (I assume that's the draw weight) because the limbs are at the bottom.

C) If I move the rest, do I move it to the left???

The box and the Easton website both say this is right shaft for my bow settings. Shouldn't be overspined, but sure seems that way.

Anyone have input here? It doesn't seem to be effecting accuracy, at least out to 16 yards, with a 125 gr. Fieldpoint, 125 gr. Hell Razor and 125 gr. Muzzy BH. (We're trying those out now, that's why I mention them.)

I noticed that when I nock these arrows, the bottom Right vane contacts my Tension Lines, but I'm not sure that's the problem. I'm lost.
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Old 04-26-2008, 01:59 PM
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It sounds to me like your vanes may be contacting your string near your cable slide. You should ALWAYS have clearance between your vanes and string. Nothing should ever contact your vanes. If it does it can "bump" our arrow as it passes and cause it to do all kinds of squirrely things. I shoot archery league here and know that when I shoot one that really drops away for no reason its almost always because my nock turned a bit and allowed my vane to contact the string. Or, my whisker biscuit just shredded another vane. If you don't have proper clearance try nocking an arrow then turning the shaft just a tad to increase the clearance between the vanes and string. Let me know if it helps. Cheers!
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Old 04-26-2008, 03:14 PM
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That's certainly the cheaper solution. Man I'd hate to think that 3 hours at BassPro and $80 just go to waste.
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Old 04-26-2008, 05:21 PM
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A cushion plunger is likely what they are calling the little rubber string catcher that comes back towards your string from your riser. When you release your string. The arrow flies, then immediately after your string it's a string suppressor or plunger. It's fairly new gadget. Mathews has them on some bows and so does Diamond. The Diamond Marquis has one standard with a "V" cut into it.

I wouldn't change your arrows. Something else must be wrong and I think it's my original suggestion about the vanes hitting the string.

I can try to find a pic of one for you.

And yes if your rest needed to be moved it would be moved left. But, IMHO that would likely be because someone didn't set your bow up properly to begin with at Bass Pro.
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:36 PM
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hey guys, I could be wrong but I think the cushion plunger they are talking about is a type of rest. And I think the tension is the amount pressure it applies to the arrow....again I may be wrong. The rubber part that catches the string I don't think really affects arrow flight. If I remember right either beman or easton has a good reference on tuning your bow, possibly NAP also?
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:37 PM
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excellent article from chuck adams on the nahc website on tuning the bow. register as a guest, go to features, then skills and equipment, then bowhunting. the article is on the next page.
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:57 PM
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Yep, try turning the nock a bit to make sure you're clearing the string. If you're still having issues, try moving the rest a little at a time. Before you move it, make note of it's current position.
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:26 PM
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Sorry all! I've been out with a back muscle issue and just got to a point where work is caught up and the back is better!

I appreciate all the input here. As always... you guys come through for me!

I told Kevin Sunday that I think I had it figured out. I was shooting at 8 yards, and all kinda craziness was going on. I monkey'd around with the vanes/nock angle and moved the rest left and right, but it just got worse. I figured "what the heck", and Cale and I moved outside to see what 16 yard shots would tell us. 9 of 12 were bullet holes. The remaining 3 were still pretty good, but had slight right-tail tears.

I'm going to try to get to the range soon, (back and weather willing), and paper-tune at 30 yards just to see what's what. This is really a full time hobby isn't it??

Thanks again for all the help... You all are awesome!
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:36 PM
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paper tune at about 10 ft you want to know what the bow is doing just after the arrow comes off of it not after it has had time to correct itself, a cushion plunger was used with lots of the old rest that we were shooting 15-20 years ago when most of that stuff was written, look for clearance issues. if none move the rest a little at a time until you get a good hole. next flight or walkback tune, it works better than paper. paper is just a starting point. Sight in at 20yds, back up to 40 or 50 if your arrows group left or right of where they did at 20 move the rest until it hits the sights, you should be getting good flight and your sights at the different distances should come together.

What is your draw weight. What bow are you shooting, some like mathews really like a stiffer spined arrow. if your arrows are 29" long and you are shooting 125gr tips and shooting much over 58-59lbs you are going to be underspinned.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:07 PM
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I have found paper tuning to be worthless with today’s short ATA bows. I use a laser or eye ball it to start, then walk back tune it. It works better.
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