#11  
Old 08-28-2008, 05:18 PM
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I have slowed it down..........seem to work maybe a little. I am getting ready to try an acc 3-49/390 and seee how it works... just waiting on the water to boil to put the quickfletch on
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2008, 07:31 PM
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Let us know when you get it working. I am out of ideas.....
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2008, 08:16 PM
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I Have tried everything i can think of...........it is better...... but still have movement It is shooting good groups out to 40yds but it is flying terrible.. i have had the bow for 3 weeks and had been shooting my starhunter off of my old bow and it seem to be flying really well. i did'nt paper tune it because i was waiting on my NAP stuff to arrive......just put it back on and i am going to shoot it through the paper tommorrow to see. hope it's not the BOW!! I don't think so it was flying so much better before i changed rests. I think i'm still having a clearence issue
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Old 08-28-2008, 08:18 PM
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Let me try to help you some. 1st lets start from the beginning , What bow , type, draw length, draw weight, arrow type, spine, arrow length, tip size, shooting loop or off string. This will all help with finding a fix.
I have found that with a lot of new bows paper tuning is a waste of time. From what I have seen the last couple of years are that a lot of bows take a little longer for the arrow to flatten out or stabilize. At the shop I work at we can some times take a bow and get a bad tear at a few yards, but move back 10+ yards and itís got bullet holes. And can shoot and group broad heads with a bad paper tear. What I do on my own stuff is set nock point, then laser tune (except Mathews lasers donít work right), sight in and start shooting. Then Iíll do walk back tuning or group tuning on bow. When this works good then switch to broad heads and may have to tweak but not much at all if bow was shooting well before. Note: before you try broadheads always spin test the arrow broadhead combo. If it does not spin right donít use. This is some thing I could not stress enough, arrows have to be perfect.

Side note: did you make sure that your rest is dropping at the right time? When pulling back your bow arrow should be all the way up at about 3/4 of full draw.
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2008, 09:09 PM
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Thanks i am shooting hoyt katera xl..28inch draw..58lbs...beman ics hunter 400... 100 grain head...string loop
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  #16  
Old 08-29-2008, 06:57 AM
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keep us posted
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2008, 03:30 PM
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Well to start with that bow and rest combo should work fine togather for you. Do you have the arrow holder on the rest or on the bow shelf? If on the rest it may be hitting arrow, some times drop away rest bounce back and make contact with arrow. Mounting it on the rest arm gives you less clearance.
Another thing to look at is cam timing if its off you can get some funny flight. To check on this bow draw back and see if cam hits stops on top and bottom at the same time, you may need some one to look at it when you are drawing itís back(itís a lot easer).
I assume by now you have checked your nock point and center shot.
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  #18  
Old 09-01-2008, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowmike View Post
Well to start with that bow and rest combo should work fine togather for you. Do you have the arrow holder on the rest or on the bow shelf? If on the rest it may be hitting arrow, some times drop away rest bounce back and make contact with arrow. Mounting it on the rest arm gives you less clearance.
Another thing to look at is cam timing if its off you can get some funny flight. To check on this bow draw back and see if cam hits stops on top and bottom at the same time, you may need some one to look at it when you are drawing it’s back(it’s a lot easer).
I assume by now you have checked your nock point and center shot.
It has one that is already on the rest and one that sticks onto your shelf...are you talking about the one on the rest because I was going to take it off but decided to just change rests for now. It's way to close to opening day to be messing with my setup. changed rest and everything is fine now
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